I Can See Russia from Here

Hello from the end of the world. I have been to the western-most reaches of Ireland, which, for the better part of recorded time, was the edge of the known world. Once early people got to the end of chain of islands that I visited on Monday, they were faced with empty ocean. It has been a pretty interesting experience to look and imagine what people must have thought about their world

I find myself in the little town of Dingle. Dingle is unique because it is in a region that has made concerted effort to retain the Irish culture. Everyone still speaks English, and all of the signs are still labeled in English, but the Irish language is much more prevalent here. I have heard more people speaking it, and it is the first language on all of the signs. There are a lot of places to buy traditional goods, as well as traditional Irish music in just about every pub in town. I spent some time just wandering from pub to pub listening to the small groups playing on their fiddles, guitars, accordions and drums. It is much more enjoyable than any bar music I have heard back home, especially that of the karaoke nature.

I went out to an island called Great Blasket. This place is like a time capsule into Ireland's past. Up until 1953, there were people living out on the island. It was a place where scholars from all over the would come to learn to read and write in Irish. Nearly every inhabitant of the island seems to have written at least one book, or dictated it to someone else. This is pretty impressive since they had no indoor plumbing, or electricity. They lived like this until 1953! They managed to survive for generations on this island with fish, rabbits, sheep and some small fields of crops. I also saw a donkey that was pretending to be a llama, but I don't know if he has been there long, I won't assume. Ironically, their extreme isolation helped them to ride through the potato famine with very little consequence.

Speaking about famine, let's talk about food. That might have been culturally insensitive, but it seemed like a nice segue to me. This was an area that I was slightly concerned about before my trip. Everyone told me that the food was pretty mediocre here. I have not found that to be true at all. I have yet to have a meal that was disappointing. I have had lamb, and several different types of fish, some wonderful soups, a very tasty steak, duck, and even had the chance to try foies gras, sorry animal lovers. There seems to be a big push here to change their culinary image. Even the pubs that I have eaten in seem to be trying their hands at more interesting dishes. That's not to say that I am being snooty in my food choices. I had a wonderful dinner of fish and chips served in brown paper from a little shop on the corner. This is how you should eat fish and chips.

I take a pretty simple stand when it comes to eating on trips, I never eat at a place that I can find in Pueblo. So far, that has not been a big challenge. There is a subway here in Dingle, and I have seen a few signs for KFC along the road, but I know that Mcdonalds and Burger King are lurking out there. I rely heavily on the help of others to find places to eat. My Rick Steve guide has been very helpful, as have the B&B owners I have stayed with. There is a nice option at most of the restaurants that I have eaten out. They offer a two or three course early bird dinner. Their early bird is usually sometime between 5 and 8, which is what I usually just call dinner time, so it works out well for me.

Stay tuned for more adventures